American
“The all-American suit—with an unostentatious lapel and lean pants—has its roots in the Ivy League style of the fifties. Thom Browne’s 21st-century, charcoal wool version, with a slim body and soft, sloping shoulders, could easily stand up to the rigors of Yale.”
Thom Browne ($4,140)
British
“The classic British suit takes its inspiration from the uniforms of the royal armed forces—the high shoulders and slanted pockets of which are a hallmark of Savile Row’s Spencer Hart. Other homages to tradition: a nipped waist and pants that are tapered, but not tight.”
Spencer Hart (custom starts at $4,100)
Italian
“The Italians aren’t restrained about much, and the country’s signature suits—with broad, slightly padded shoulders and wide cuts—are no exception. Neapolitan clothier Kiton produces an inimitable version whose long jacket is offset by pants that fall higher on the ankle.”
Kiton ($7,585)
French
“With their high, notched lapels and angular cuts, French suits have the artistic gravitas of an installation at the Centre Pompidou. The double-breasted, slate-gray incarnation made by Yves Saint Laurent—with fabric that has a subtle sheen—should be considered the country’s sartorial ambassador.”
Yves Saint Laurent ($2,295)
